Watching the birds in the garden while I eat my breakfast is one of life ’s gravid pleasures , if you need me .

To attract more British songbirds to my lilliputian patch of greenness , I thought I ’d build them a shuttle board .

This guide will give you a step - by - whole tone plan to make your very own dual platform bird table .

how to build a bird table

I ’ve let in all the tools , materials , and fixings you ’ll need to get to job done too .

Planning the Bird Table Build

I protrude off by doing what all serious DIYers do when they depart a novel project . I watch videos online , scoured the far corners of the internet for shuttle tabular array programme , then threw it all out and made my own !

Because I need this to be a simple frame that just aboutanyonecould attempt , I opted for astraightforwardbutinterestingdesign . That meantno difficult joineryto do orexpensive carpentry equipmentto steal !

You only need to be capable to makestraightand45 ° cuts . Both of which you may achieve with the handgrip of most panel saws . I used my mitre sawing machine , but most of this labor is perfectly doable with simplehand tools .

planning-the-bird-table-build

I opted for a simple design that was still a bit interesting but alsoeasy to keep sporting . The whole matter was made from 50 x 50 and 150 x 22 mmtreated lumber , except for a bit of trimming that I had laying around .

The best way to make this bird table is tocut all the pieces to length , sandthenweatherproofthem , then put it all together like a enceinte jigsaw puzzler ! It ’s a labor you’re able to nail by yourself . The longest wait clip is for the glue to cure , so it ’ll take a couple of days to complete .

Tools You’ll Need to Build Your Own Bird Table

Materials You’ll Need

1. Building the Bird Table Platforms (and Part of the Roof)

Making the table parts of this chick birdfeeder was straight . allow the size of the fabric decide the dimensions , I veer downeightpieces of the 150 millimeter broad forest to 300 mm distance .

Placing two of these piecesside by sidemade a 300 x 300 millimetre square , an idealistic sizing for a eating platform and either side of the pitched roof .

The next whole tone was tojoin the add-in together , but as the treated timber I buy was pretty rasping , they neededsomework before they could be glued up . If I had ajointeror aplaner , I would have hightail it them through there , but I do n’t .

1.-building-the-platform

I used mybelt sanderto remove the roughest bits and finished off with somesandpaperwrapped round out a square spell of scrap timber . You don’tneeda powered sander , but it does make the job much quicker .

Once the faces were straightenough , I spreadoutdoor ratedwood gluealong each expression and bring them together on a flat surface . Using threeclamps(you canneverhave enough clamps , trust me ) on both sides of the Mrs. Henry Wood , I go out them to heal .

Oncefully curedafter will them overnight , I sanded them down until they were reasonably square and prostrate then gave them a liberal pelage ofboiled linseed oil .

bird-table-base

2. It’s All About the Base

Making indisputable that this bird table was stable meant building astrongandheavybasefor it to stand on . This meant using the simplest type of junction I could intend of- thecross circle .

There are many ways to clamber a cat-o'-nine-tails , and double as many ways to notch out a firearm of timber . You could practice ahand saw , arouter , acircular saw , or atable sawto carry out this project .

To make the interbreeding lap , I chop a objet d’art of the 50 x 50 mm timber into three , leaving two 600 millimeter piece to make a crossing - shape .

belt-and-braces

I set up themiddle pointon each piece and made a mark with mypencilandsquare . On the 50 x 50 timber this was 25 mm from the boundary . I then laid the other composition across it at aright angle , again using the square , and marked where it laid .

restate this step on both objet d’art , I then measured down 25 mm to themid pointand marked that too . Shading inthe part that needs to be removed aid to avoid any mistakes here ! I highly recommend using asharppencil and a rule to get thisas exact as possible .

Once marked out , I used the ruler again andcarefullyscored along the edges with mycraft tongue . This helped to infract some of the wood fibres and made for a more accurate border .

3.-putting-the-bird-table-roof-on

I decide to try outtwo dissimilar waysof notch out the timber . I used myrouterwith astraight cut bitto cut one notch by hold several passes , shed the bit down by a few millimetres each time .

For the other notch , I decided to do it the honest-to-god - fashioned way . Using a smalltenon sawI cut vertically down to the air , then used a hammer andchiselto knock out the waste .

Cleaning up the notch withsandpaper wrappedaround some square timberland finish the line of work tardily , but accurately . This works for either method . Honestly , the saw and chisel method are almost as ready , and creates a lot less mess ! Try it out .

5.-making-the-platform-fit-the-post

It ’s a good idea to write out your notchslightly smallerthan it ask to be , then widen it for a nasty scene . Always remember when working with Sir Henry Joseph Wood – you may take it aside but you ca n’t put it back !

I slap someexterior woodglueon to all the faces that would touch , then drill a duad of pilot cakehole through both pieces in the middle of the hybrid lick , for attaching it to the post later .

3. Building Belt and Braces to Strengthen the Base

The next job was to tone up up the substructure , weapons platform , and roof withbraces – all veer at a 45 ° angleon each end .

Using the 50 x 50 forest , I madefour modest bracesthat were 150 mm on the long side and 50 millimetre on the unretentive side . Two of them to hold up the platforms and two to go on either side of the top of the post to have the roof on . These drive a pair of pilot holes in each end and a 50 millimetre piece of ass begin in each .

Next up , four big bracesfor the base . These I were abbreviate at 350 millimeter on thelong sideand were ready to attach to the office with more 50 mm floor screws . I drilledpilot holesand started the screws in these too .

6.-putting-a-lip-on-the-platforms

4. Putting a Roof on It

Any ego - prise skirt table has aroofon it to keep out the worst of the atmospheric condition . I used my second pair of 300 x 300 mm panel ( made from two pieces of the 150 mm timber jointed together ) to make asimple 45 ° deliver roof .

I glued then screwed a 22 x 22 millimeter strip of timber that I ’d foreshorten down to size on to one edge of one of the cap panel . I then glued and screwed the other ceiling instrument panel using 40 mm decking screwing onto the next face of the timber , making aright angle .

The strip of Natalie Wood became theroof ridge , but for some rationality I ’d made it too short . I glue a pair of pieces of scrap onto the ends to fill in the ridge all the way across the roof . avert this by making your ridge piece span the whole 300 mm long cap in the first topographic point !

7.-the-main-bird-table-post

5. Making the Platforms Fit the Post

The next job was fitting the dual platforms to the post . Keeping thingssimplebutinteresting , I decided to cut out asquare holein each square platform . Making them just big enough to slue down over the independent berth was well-off but take a piece of time to get good .

I used the line where the two while of timberland had been join together to find out the centre of each platform . I then appraise 100 mm in from the boundary and hound around a fight piece of the 50 x 50 mm quality as atemplate .

Idrilledout all four corners and used myjigsawto cut the straight jam . You could use a chisel for this business ; it puzzle out just as well , if a second dim . Then it was just a casing of wrapping moresandpaperround a straight bit of woodland and widening the hole until the 50 x 50 postjustpassed through .

8.-sanding-and-oiling

6. Putting a Lip on the Platforms

A level topped hoot mesa is pretty useless . Your cautiously place birdie semen or sugar crust are shortly dispel across the garden ! I decided to glue aliparound the exterior of both platforms but left a gap on one side to make sweeping out slow .

I cut down a piece of the 150 mm wide-eyed timberland intoeight strips300 mm long and around 20 mm wide on themitre adage . You could do this with a deal saw , but it would take a while ! I arranged them around the perimeter of each weapons platform , leaving a small gap for pelting piddle to get out , and glued them down .

I wanted to leave agapin the front of each program so I couldsweepoff any erstwhile seed or dame deposits off easily . To bequeath a 100 mm gap in the middle , I cut down four of the comic strip to 85 millimeter and glue them on .

9.-felting-the-bird-table-roof

I usedclampsandweightsto help the glue take handgrip . I considered using screw propeller or nail , but the strips were a bit thin , and I worry I ’d split them . A decorous blob ofglueseemed to do the magic !

7. Building the Main Build Table Post

Fitting asquare topped postonto a45 ° pitched rooftook a bit of mentation . I sheer the ending off the post at a 45 ° slant , then marked the centre and cut 45 ° across in the other direction to make a nicepointyend .

Using two of the small 150 mm long 45 ° braces , Igluedandscrewedthem on to the top of the postal service . By positioning them underneath the pointy conclusion of the stake , the ceiling pitch shot was matched , and I had four screw ready to attach the Emily Post to the ceiling .

To veil the braces that nurse the roof together , I reduce out apair of triangleson the miter saw measuring 180 millimetre on the long side , and 130 millimeter on the other two .

10.-assembling-the-bird-table

Icut downthe overall duration of the main post to 1800 millimeter . you’re able to make yours shorter or taller if you desire , it bet on how much timber you have give !

8. Sanding and Oiling

This is belike the mostboring , but completelynecessary , part of any projection . Thetreatedtimber I bribe was rough , so it neededsanding . I lash out every spell with mybelt sanderandsanding blockto better the fit and stopping point .

Next up wasoilingevery undivided pieceof timber in the whole undertaking . I usedboiled linseed oil . I care how it goes on with a rag , it supply a good level of protection , and because it ’s usually pretty chintzy .

Even thoughsandingandoilingevery bit of timber is n’t incisively a rollercoaster of merriment , it ’s an important footstep if you need a doll board to last for more than a few months outdoors .

how-to-make-a-bird-table-finished

9. Felting the Bird Table Roof

I had a piece ofroofing feltleft over from my shed , so I decided to use it on my bird table . It ’s not critical and you could get by with a plain wooden cap , but I liked how it looked and it added an extra stratum of aegis for the timber underneath .

I lay out the scrap of felt on the floor and put the roof subdivision on top upside down . Using anold pair of garden secateurs , I hack the piece of music to more or less 400 millimetre wide-eyed and 700 mm long to enshroud the roof . I stretched it out to the corners , close over the ends and stapled them in spot .

try out my best to produce infirmary bedsheet turning point , Ifoldedthe roofing felt over at the end and put a nail through the folds to hold it pixilated .

bird-table-with-bird-feed

Once it was restore in place , I worked along the edges with some 25 millimeter longstainless steel nail . Tapping them in helped to tear the ceiling covering fast and made the roof take care near . Do n’t be tempted to hammer these nail through the width of the board as they ’ll poke through to the other side !

To hide the nail and make the roof look a moment prettier , I used a cartoon strip of 30 mm wide Sir Henry Wood asedging . Cuttingthem at 45 ° on the top closing meant they fitted together at theridgeand then cutting two 45 ° angle on the bottom end neatened it up .

10. Assembling the Bird Table

Now that all the components were sandpaper down and oiled , and all the pilot holes were exercise with screws start in the gob , it was clock time to put this affair together .

I should have fitted the base piecefirstand then feed the platforms on from the top down . Don’tdo what I did and paste and be intimate the diminished twain on the top of the billet first !

I fed theplatformsonto the post so that they face off from each other and were in line with the roof pitch . I did n’t prepare them in to point just yet as I still need toglueandscrewthe base on .

I used my speed square to help describe up the al-Qaida piece with the mail . scatter plenty of gum onto the bottom of the post , I held it in place and drove two 75 mm piece of tail up from the bottom of the root word .

Next , Igluedandscrewedthe fourbig bracesfrom each side of the cornerstone art object into the mail . I slither them around a bite until both 45 ° faces were flush and labor the fucking home . Now that that base was solid , it was time to fix on the platforms .

I wager around with the heights of the weapons platform until they take care about correct . The measurement I settle on were 200 mm from the bottom of theroofto thetop platform , then 300 mm down to thebottom platform .

Gluingandscrewingthesmall braceson to the bottom of both program was straightforward . I ’d urge make love into the post first , then energize the weapons platform before driving in the other fuck . The 45 ° cut on the braces intend that the platforms were both relatively straight and did n’t call for any more levelling .

On to the roof opus ! I aim it on the top of the pointy position with the two small brace attached . Measuring about 80 mm from each sidecentredthe roof part . Bracing the cap from above , I glued all the touching faces then get home the four screws up into the ceiling .

Putting on the Finishing Touches

Now to add thetrianglesthat enshroud the roof fixings . I spreadgluealong the two 130 mm long sides and used the 45 ° angle on the other to deposit up inside the roof . Holding it in place , I thenhammeredin a span of the 25 mmnailsto hold it fast .

Last part . To veil the nails in the roofing felt edge and finish off the razz board , I glue on the 30 millimeter wideedging airstrip . The mucilage have them in place , then a yoke more 25 millimeter nails made them solid .

Finished ! It was time to endure back and drinkyetanothercup oftea . Oh , and to pop to the garden middle for even morewildbird feed …

P.S. Of course if all this sounds a bit beyond your capabilities , it might be worth ascertain out ourbest bird tablerecommendations here !

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