The first twosome years after I moved to Central Oregon ( which feel like a glacial tundra after 15 years of populate in Southern California ) , I experimented with mature strawberry . I do it there were hardy varieties but I did n’t know exactlywhichvarieties would do advantageously in my new garden , and so … I develop them all .

I had Junebearing , everbearing , and day - neutral strawberries ( many twelve of plant attempted over two years ) and most of them were lackluster in both size and yield . ( The one that still had flowers after our late spring freezes , anyway . )

What I realized after several disappointments was that all strawberries were not equal — and I was often growing the faulty type of strawberry wholly ! Here ’s what I learned so you may annul the same mistakes that I made .

Looking down on a bed of Junebearing strawberry plants with runners being propagated from the mother plants into small black pots

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Understanding strawberry types

When I say “ types , ” I do n’t mean varieties ( I ’ll get into those by and by ) . I ’m talking about the three main character that strawberries are categorized as :

curt - Clarence Shepard Day Jr. hemangioma simplex lead up flower production when day length is 10 hour or less , and swap to ball carrier product once day length and temperature increase . tenacious - daytime strawberry pioneer flush when twenty-four hours length reach 12 hours , and day - neutral strawberry are not sensitive at all to day length — they’ll flower over a range of clear periods .

While all of these type can loosely be grown the same way as far as soil , luminousness , and water are touch on , they have distinct differences in how often they conduct fruit . realize these conflict can help you choose the good diversity ( cultivar ) for your garden and maximize your fruit production each year .

Close-up of pink strawberry flowers from a Tristan cultivar growing in a terracotta strawberry pot in a garden

Junebearing strawberries

Junebearers ( sometimes also called spring - bearer ) produce one with child crop per year in spring to other summer . This is typically in June ( hence the name ) but can be as late as July in some region .

The fruiting time of year usually live two to four week , and Junebearing types be given to produce those big juicy berries we dream about . But it ’s delayed gratification at its fine ; the plants typically do n’t   bring out a dependable crop until the next year after plant .

In balmy climates ( Department of Agriculture zone 7 and above ) , Junebearing hemangioma simplex can be planted in late fall when the short Clarence Day length spurs efflorescence bud formation . The blossom set about to open once temperatures warm up in mid to recent winter , then conduct yield from other give to early summer . capitulation planting is the ideal scenario for Junebearing type .

A strawberry plant growing in a wide, dark brown ceramic planter in a garden

If you last in a colder climate , you’re able to also found Junebearers once the soil is workable in spring ( normally six weeks before your last icing date ) . The only caveat is that it ’s best pattern to take out all the blossom that form that first year , so your industrial plant have clock time to establish root word before they fruit during their 2d year .

Junebearing strawberry mark have lots of runners , so they ’re well suitable to a matted quarrel planting system and propagating daughter plant from female parent flora . ( I speak strawberry space in this guide . )

Best for : Anyone who want a large craw of berries in one heavyweight fit for freezing or make jams .

A cluster of both ripe and unripe strawberries growing on a plant in a garden bed mulched with strraw

Everbearing strawberries

With everbearing strawberry , you ’ll get two crop per twelvemonth : one in June ( give or take a couple weeks ) , and another in late summertime .

you may embed everbearers in springtime and they ’ll produce a late summertime crop the same year they ’re establish . Like daylight - neutrals , everbearers are touch on by air temperature and fight to flower and yield systematically above 90 ° F . ( There are elision , however , like the ‘ Eversweet ’ cultivar , which can tolerate temps above 100 ° farad with no loss of fruit timbre ) .

Compared to Junebearing strawberry , everbearing types have much few runners . While this helps keep your strawberry piece more manageable , it also mean you wo n’t be able to propagate bunch of unexampled industrial plant from the mother plants . Everbearers are well grow using a Alfred Hawthorne system or space row system .

Close-up of strawberry plant foliage dotted with white flowers

If give a choice between this type or solar day - indifferent strawberries , however , I ’d go for the latter . Everbearers just are n’t as fertile ( since they do n’t fruit all time of year long ) and the berries tend to be on the littler side .

Best for : Anyone who prefers two somewhat - sized harvests each year instead of one heavy harvest .

Day-neutral strawberries

I have to clear one matter up first : Some nursery label Clarence Shepard Day Jr. - neutral strawberries as everbearing strawberry , or clod day - neutral cultivars together with everbearing type . But you should know the difference if you want to get the most berries possible from your plants !

Day - neutrals are so - predict because they produce flower and fruits throughout the growing season as long as temperature stick above 40 ° F and below 90 ° atomic number 9 . Some farming expert even suggest that flush bud shaping starts decline above 70 ° atomic number 9 , but most gardens can mitigate that by provide shade during the hottest part of summertime .

It might seem weird that a summertime fruit wo n’t bear fruit when it ’s spicy out , but extravagant heating plant can damage fruit and Caranx crysos yield . ( I use a shade clothlike this one , which I alsoput over pinnace leafy K to keep them from boltingtoo early on . )

In most field , the growing time of year for day - neutral character runs from May to October ( or until a laborious frost puts them into quiescency ) , and they continue to set and mature strawberries all summer long . The flora take over fruit the first year they ’re planted , but get fewer runners compared to Junebearing types . Because of all this , they ’re a great selection for container arise if you have a lowly space .

I typically pinch off the very first flush of flowers on new plants so they can spend that initial energy developing roots , then love strawberries for the rest of the year .

Best for : Anyone who wants a uninterrupted supply of berries for fresh feeding all summertime long ( though the first harvest is usually large enough for mess - qualification ) .

Where to buy

Strawberry plants

Why does the type matter?

It weigh most for people who have late spring frost or very red-hot summer .

If you tend to get tardy freeze or unpredictable fountain weather condition , you ’ll desire to debar Junebearing and everbearing types because you could drop off all your flowers to ice . ( It ’s happened to me ! ) Remember that with these particular strawberry types , you only get one or two crop per class — so it ’s just not deserving taking the chance with conditions .

On the snotty-nosed side , hot mood like Arizona and Texas have the most achiever with Junebearing types . These type of strawberries can be grown through fall and winter , and harvested before the arrival of searing weather ( which — in parts of Texas , for example — may happen as early as April ) .

This is not to say that a dusty climate ca n’t plant Junebearing types or a hot clime ca n’t plant everbearing typesever . If you may grow them in a more master surround like a greenhouse , then you have many more selection .

Choosing the right strawberry cultivars

Within each strawberry type , you ’ll find several cultivars that are adapted to specific climates and depart in flavor , fruit sizing , flora longevity , and pest and disease tolerance . Among the Junebearing cultivars , there will also be early season , midseason , and late season strawberry , each group ripen within a few twenty-four hour period of one another .

Since the works are perennials , you ’ll need to make indisputable you choose an appropriately cold - audacious cultivar for your microclimate . Just because it ’s supposed to do well in zone 6 does n’t mean it ’ll do well inyourzone 6 garden .

Before heading to the garden inwardness or ordering your works , be sure to note the names of the cultivars so you have it away exactly what character of strawberry you ’re pay back .

Junebearers

Everbearers

Day-neutrals

The best strawberry variety

In my opinion , after having grown intimately a dozen cultivars from the lists above , the best all - around strawberry sort is a four - way tie between Charlotte , Eversweet , Seascape , and Albion .

I grow all four of these in my own garden ( protrude frombare - radical strawberry plants ) and prefer day - neutral because I wish having a uninterrupted harvest . In my experience , their berries also tend to be larger than everbearing types ( with the exception of alpine strawberry mark , which naturally maturate modest ) .

Sure , the harvest each time is n’t as swelled as what I used to get from my Junebearers in California , but I ’ll mirthfully merchandise a enceinte once - a - year harvest for a little ( and steady ) supply from spring through drop .

If these cultivar can expand in your climate ( they ’re actually pretty various ) , I extremely recommend them for these reasons :

That said , it ’s best to produce a mix of dissimilar varieties from the same strawberry eccentric , as they will flower and fruit at unlike time , collapse you a longer harvest menses . Certain salmagundi have characteristics you might also need for your garden , such as disease resistance .

So , experiment with growing new strawberry cultivars each twelvemonth until you find the one you really love !